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A Wine Lover's Diary, part 297 (June 28, 2010)

Monday, June 21: Received an email stating that Thomas Bachelder is stepping down as winemaker for Le Clos Jordanne. I'd written a profile on Thomas for the Niagara Grape Vine and will have to rejig. In the evening a meeting of the Directors of IWEG at Zoltan Fekete's home.

Tuesday, June 22: Wrote my 680News wine reviews and then drove over to Lynn Crawford's restaurant, Ruby Watch Co., to see if the upstairs bar area is big enough for an engagement party for my daughter Annabel. Since she's decided on a destination wedding in Maui she wants a party for her friends in Toronto. Dinner at Scaramouch with Luc Bouchard and Russell and Jason Woodman, Bouchard Père et Fils's importing agents. I had missed the annual Bouchard and William Fèvre tasting at the RCYC and Jason had kindly invited me to taste some of the wines over dinner.

  • William Fèvre Chablis Vaillons 2008: light straw colour; minerally, citrus nose, very crisp and elegant; fresh and lively on the palate with a lemony flavour; lean and sinewy with good length (89+)
  • William Fèvre Chablis Vaulorent 2008 (used to be the Fourchaume): straw colour with green highlights; more extract here, minerally nose with notes of white flowers; green pineapple flavour. A delicious wine (91)
  • Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Clos Saint-Landry 2008: medium straw colour; spicy, rich apple and pear and honeysuckle nose; full middle palate, great balance of fruit and acidity and discreet use of oak. Great length. (91)
  • Bouchard Père et Fils Corton Charlemagne 2008: pale straw colour with a green tiny; fennel, citrus nose. Light and elegant on the palate with lively acidity and a long, lingering finish. (90)
  • Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Les Clous 2007: medium straw colour; lifted nose of fennel and pineapple with a note of barnyard; crisp and clean and beautifully precise flavours of apple, pineapple and lemon. (91)
  • Villa Ponciago Fleurie La Réserve 2009 (a Beaujolais domaine acquired by Henriot in 2008): dense purple colour with a nose of violets and dark cherries; fresh and fruity, light and stylish with well integrated oak. (89)
  • Bouchard Père et Fils Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus 2008: deep ruby colour; violets and raspberries on the nose, very forward with a soft, silky mouth feel. Powerful but remarkably delicate, almost lacy. (92+)

For dinner I had oysters, a goat's cheese starter and wild salmon.

Wednesday, June 23: Wrote a piece on Deborah Paskus for The County Grapevine. And then drove to Meaford to conduct a fund-raiser dinner for the local library at Coffin Ridge Boutique Winery overlooking Georgian Bay. Neil Lamont, a local surgeon, started the winery as a retirement project and is obviously having a lot of fun with naming his wines: Into The Light White, Back From The Dead Red and Resurrection Rosé. The winery was named after Coffin Hill, which is visible from the 25-acre vineyard where Neil has planted winter-hardy varieties: for whites, Geisenheim 318, Prairie Star, Frontenac Gris, L'Acadie Blanc and La Crescent, as well as importing Riesling from Niagara. Reds, Baco Noir, Marechal Foch, Sabrevoir, DeChaunac, Leon Millot and Frontenac. I tasted Into the Light White 2009, a tasty blend of Geisenheim 318 and Prairie Star. It tasted rather like a Sauvignon Blanc with dry, grassy, grapefruit and white peach flavours. Back From the Dead Red 2008 was smoky, blackberry, earthy, a little on the lean side but enjoyable nonetheless. Coffin Ridge is Ontario's most northerly grape winery (if global warming keeps up those bragging rights might go to Timmins).

Spent the night at a lovely B&B called Holly Cottage in Meaford.

Thursday, June 24: Drove back to Toronto and shopped for our Saintsbury Society dinner party on Saturday. For dinner, tilapia with a bottle of Laurent Miguel Père et Fils Chardonnay 2008 from the Pays d'Oc. Great value at $11.95.

Friday, June 25: Took time off to watch the World Cup. Not venturing downtown because of the G20. Watched Halladay blow through the Blue Jays.




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