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Boissets' New Burgundy Label (June 20, 2001)

Recently Jean-Charles Boisset, whose family is the largest Burgundy shipper, came to Toronto to unveil for the first time anywhere a portfolio of wines under the Domaine de la Vougeraie label. Vougeraie is the name of the house belonging to Jean-Charles' father, Jean-Claude Boisset, who founded the company in 1961.

The Vougeraie domaine is a composite of 29 vineyard holdings in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. The properties cover 37 hectares in all - including 1.5 hectares within the fabled Clos de Vougeot and En Bollery, a famous plot facing the Clos, as well as the Premier Cru Monopole, Les Clos Blanc, the only one of its kind in the Côte de Nuits.

The general manager of the project is the Montreal-born winemaker, Pascal Marchand (pictured), who used to make Clos des Epeneaux for Domaine Comte Armand in Pommard. For his first vintage (1999) of the Domaine de la Vougeraie label, Marchand made 13 wines ranging from Grands Crus to a regional wine.

At a Toronto tasting he and Jean-Charles Boisset showed the following six products. (Prices in Canadian $$)

Vougeot "Clos du Prieuré" Blanc 1999 ($57.90)
Straw colour with a lime green tint; fresh, lemony, wet stone nose redolent with pear skin; elegant, racy, pear, peach and pineapple notes, great balance with a lingering finish. (****1/2)

Vougeot 1er Cru "Clos Blanc de Vougeot" 1999 ($112)
(A vineyard planted with white grapes since the twelfth century)
Deer straw with a lime tint; spicy, apple, vanilla nose; beautifully made, elegant and lean with apple, mineral flavours that billow on the palate to a toasty, roasted hazelnut with lively citrus acidity and a long, clovey finish. An astonishing wine. (*****)

Beaune "Clos du Roi" 1999 ($48.80)
Royal purple colour; plum, leather, violets on the nose with a cooked note; well extracted, spicy black cherry flavour with a floral grace note. New World style with forward fruit and soft tannins. (****)

Vougeot 1er Cru "Les Cras" 1999 ($72.60)
(Destemmed but not crushed; 50 per cent of the berries left intact for 4 to 5 days in open top vats with a week's maceration after fermentation)
Dense purple colour; violets, white pepper, black raspberries and vanilla on the nose; richly extracted with a mineral note running under the raspberry flavour; earthy, satiny tannins. (*****)

Corton Grand Cru "Le Clos du Roi" 1999 ($89.90)
Dense purple colour; predominating oak nose, fruit somewhat closed at present; lean, more traditionally Burgundian in style; elegant, firm, black cherry, blackcurrant flavours; the well-extracted fruit has an attractive sweetness; firm tannic finish. Needs at least three years cellaring. (**** going to *****?)

For availability, contact Danielle Grioux at Atlas Wine Merchants in Mississauga, Ontario: (905) 564-3003 ext. 308 or 1-888-702-8527.

 

 

 

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