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Le Gavroche Cookbook
Reviewed by Dean Tudor
 (August 21, 2003)

Le Gavroche Cookbook (Seven Dials, 2003; distr. by Canada Manda Group, 288 pages, ISBN 1-84188-233-X, $33.95 paper covers) is by Michel Roux Jr., who now runs the famous restaurant (founded in 1967 by the Roux Brothers). The book was originally published by Cassell in 2001, the tenth year of Roux Jr.'s tenure. It was the first restaurant of its kind for high end French classical cuisine in London.

This is a chef's cookbook for home use, with a seasonal arrangement for important ingredients. There is an excellent chapter on wine selection. Other material here includes photos of the team at work in the kitchen, planning tips, table settings, and more photos of the plated dish.

Typical preps include vegetables à la grecque served on spoons, pissaladiere, a whole range of tuiles, tagine of red mullet and couscous, a mille-feuille of mussels, lobster cassoulet (a winter dish). But some preps and ingredients seem too precious, such as gulls eggs and monkfish liver, as well as lots of named French ingredients hard to come by outside of France (e.g., Bresse chickens, Blackleg chickens). But do try the light pea soup with poached egg (you can skip the added frogs legs) or the stuffed saddle of lamb to die for...And an easy dish: brie stuffed with truffles.

What I don't like about this book: only imperial measurements are used.
What I do like about this book: there are wine recommendations for most dishes, usually French or Italian wines. Also, this is a good history of the resto, and a good reference book for other restaurants.
Quality-to-Price rating: 89.

 

 

 

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