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Tapenade and Anchoļade (August 30, 2001)

Bread machines just may be the neatest new appliance to come along in decades; for all those gourmands who understand and crave good bread and
find themselves in the back of beyond for the summer, it surely is the answer! Don't have one yet? Well, read on, and you'll be headed for your nearest appliance store to look them over!

Of course you have to have directions and recipes to operate this new
gadget, and hot off the press is a wonderful new cookbook, Easy Bread Machine Baking, by Home Economist Shirley Ann Holmes. All the recipes are a fabulous read, and the instructions are clear and concise. And if you are a diehard bread maker from scratch, you will still enjoy the recipes with new flavour combinations in this book.

We had to try the fougasse, and while it may be gilding the lily, topped the finished product with a sinfully rich tapenade from Olives, Anchovies and Capers, by Georgeanne Brennan. We've also included her recipe for anchoïade, a pungent, garlicky dipping sauce for bread or raw vegetables.

Maybe you're not in the South of France right now, but shut your eyes as you savour these recipes and you'll be instantly transported to Provence.


Georgeanne Brennan told us that, as is the case with so many classic dishes, tapenade, a specialty of southern France, comes in dozens of versions, and any kind of olive can be used. Sometimes bread crumbs or ground almonds are added for thickening, mustard is mixed in for a sharp flavour, or various herbs such as thyme or rosemary are used to deliver a hint of the woods. In its simplest application, tapenade is spread on toasts and served as an appetizer with aperitifs, from Champagne to sweet vermouth. It is also used as a sauce for vegetables and grilled meats and to flavour other foods such as pastas, stuffings and flans.  

This version is so quick and simple and sinfully yummy We like to let it sit for a few hours to meld the flavours, but you can get to it right away if the bread is fresh and waiting!

Makes about 1 cup

1½ cups salt cured black olives, pitted
16 anchovy fillets
3 Tbsp capers, rinsed and drained
½ tsp minced fresh thyme
1 to 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Traditionally, this spread is made with a mortar and pestle, pounding the ingredients until they form a smooth paste. The process can also be accomplished in a blender, however. Put the olives, anchovies, capers and thyme in a blender along with the olive oil and puree until smooth.

If your are not using it immediately, put the puree in a jar, cover tightly and store in the refrigerator, where it will keep for up to 3 months.


Anchoïade, a thick-to-middling-thick Provençal pomade of pure anchovy flavour heightened by garlic, is not for the timid. It is spread onto toasts at aperitif time or offered as a dipping sauce for raw vegetables such as fennel, carrots, celery, black radishes and celery root. To serve it as a sauce, simply put it into a bowl surrounded by the vegetables, or pour it into individual bowls for each person.

Makes about 3/4 cup

6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
16 anchovy fillets
4 to 5 flat-leaf parsley sprigs
1 Tbsp red wine vinegar
1/3 to 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Coarsely chop the garlic and the anchovies. Using a mortar and pestle, small food processor or blender, mash or process the garlic, anchovies and parsley with the vinegar until blended together, then slowly add the olive oil, continuing until a thick paste forms. It will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Accompanying wine?
Tony Recommends...

a crisply dry white wine – Muscadet, Chablis or cool climate Sauvignon Blanc.

We wish to thank Firefly Books, publishers of Easy Bread Machine Baking, by Shirley Ann Holmes with photographs by Hal Roth, and Raincoast Books, distributors of Olives, Anchovies and Capers, by Georgeanne Brennan with photographs by Leigh Beisch.

Happily tested by Helen Hatton and Ron Morris.




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